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Foodie Adventures in Naples + Rome

5 days in Naples Rome

#naples #rome #sea #tevere #food #pizza #carbonara #pasta #italy #culture #foodie

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by @silvia

Silvia Race

13th November 2018
Naples and Rome are the two most beautiful cities in Italy. They are full of culture, art, sites, but most importantly the food here is so damn great! so if you're looking for something to revitalize your senses there you go, come on board!
Via Francesco Caracciolo
Welcome to one of the most beautiful walks in Naples. Via Caracciolo takes you along the Neapolitan Gulf with a jaw dropping view of the islands Capri and Ischia and the majestic Vesuvius. Breath in the breeze from the sea, watch the fishermen unwrap their nets and enjoy it, you just arrived in Italy's most sunny city!
Via Chiaia
This beautiful street full of trees is the perfect refreshment for summer. There are benches and you can just enjoy the view of the people who pass by, the beautiful buildings in this neighborhood which is known as the fancy neighborhoods in Naples. It is full of shops like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and so on.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus
This place is considered an historical site. Founded in 1860 it is one of the most important Café in Naples, if not the most important one. The interior is incredibly beautiful decorated in liberty style, it feels like going back in time, big mirrors and chandeliers and statues and paintings. Very important people used to come here like D'Annunzio who apparently wrote some of his poetries at these tables, Wilde, Hemingway and almost every Italian President. In Naples coffee is holy, and that is not an overstatement. The coffee here is a cult, people are obsessed with it and it has to be an espresso to be a 'real' coffee. People consume it really hot and standing. A nice tradition that started here is to pay for more than one coffee so that someone who can't afford it can ask a free one. Moreover, everyone deserves coffee.
Piazza del Plebiscito
This Square is massive and incredibly beautiful. It is just in front of the royal palace and the view of the seaside. People usually sit on the stairs to soak in the beauty. Something that usually surprises tourists is to see so many kids playing soccer in the streets. In this square a lot of soccer matches take place among kids and it's funny to see how seriously they take them. Ps A challenge is to cross the square with eyes closed. The queen let the prisoners free if they were able to do it, apparently nobody makes it!
Napoli Sotterranea
One of the most characteristic experience to have is to go underground and find a whole other city. Underground indeed there are so many layers of history from the ancient roman times to the hidden getaway of the royals to the more modern times of the refugees from the war. This experience is one to have!
Il Ristorantino dell'Avvocato
Here they offer both an 'earth menu' and a 'sea menu'. If you haven't tried it yet maybe it is time for you to discover the amazing 'parmigiana'. Parmigiana is a plate made of multiple levels of fried aubergines with tomato, Parmesan, Basil and olive oil. Everyone has a different version of it, but in this restaurant they tend to mix traditional cuisine with some touches of innovation! The menu changes but you will probably find a new version of this plate
Castel dell'Ovo
Along the walk you'll find a beautiful castle: Castel dell'Ovo. Built during the Roman Empire, this castle has been trough a lot. Here you start getting a little of the Neapolitan essence: artists, musicians, vendors come here. And obviously a lot of tourists, but don't worry, there's never queue to get inside so go ahead!
Officina del Mare
This is the most romantic place: just at the feet of the castle lit up for the night, there is a nice little village of fishermen. A lot of restaurant are on the sea in between boats. There are usually musicians playing Neapolitan ballads and the moon reflects on the sea. It feels like a dream. Plus the food feels like a dream: at the officinal del mare you can have fresh fish just caught from the sea right on your table. Try spaghetti with clams, one of the typical dishes, or the impepata di cozze a summer plate that consists of a soup with mussels and spices. Or you could try a fresh tartare. If you want to go for a classic have fried fish. I know you're hungry already!
Chalet Ciro
Walking maybe is a good idea after all you've had for dinner. Plus the view and the bars here make this the perfect place for a nice night walk. But if you want a dessert to finish off the day, head to Chalet Ciro: one of the best ice creams parlors. A specialty they make here is also the 'graffa' it is kind of a fried sugary donuts but the description could never make up how good this dessert is, and they put the cold ice cream inside as a contrast.
Piazza Dante
Piazza Dante is dedicated to Dante Alighieri, one of the oldest high school faces the square that is always crowded with bars full of people who sit there to soak in the sun. Nice pop up shops are here and there where you can get really weird quirky clothes
Via Port'Alba
This street is known as the 'library street' indeed there a lot of libraries that sell every kind of book from school books to antique ones and rare works. The prices are very low and they also sell second hand books.
Museo Cappella Sansevero
The veiled Christ is one of the most important work of art. The chapel is basically built around it even though there are loads of other work of arts that leave you speechless as well. The Christ in marble literally looks like there's a veil over it and the details are amazing. Just by looking at the rooftop you'll get another surprise by an incredible painting that decorates full ever corner!
Gino e Toto Sorbillo
This neighborhood is in the heart of Naples. Little narrow streets with clothes hanging, old ladies chatting to each other from a window to another. And a lot of crowd everywhere! In Italy and especially in the south lunch is eaten very late compared to the rest of the country. For example in the north people have lunch at midday, in the south it is at 13/14 pm. You are in Naples so of course you are about to have what the world has always celebrated, created different versions of it (sometimes going way too far) here you have the original, the one and only PIZZA! Just in the place where it was born. And trust me it tastes nothing like the one you had your whole life, it is way better. So get ready for this experience! PS Get ready because the crowd is insane and there is literally no trick, you'll just have to wait BUT it will be worth every second.
Pasticceria Giovanni Scaturchio
Try in this famous patisserie the iconic 'Babà'. The Baba is Neapolitan traditional dessert that consist of a yeast base dough that creates spongy texture soaked in Rum. It is delicious and sometimes it is made with chocolate, fruit or cream. Yummy! this patisserie is historical and it is known as one of the best in the city to try the baba, plus they make crazy compositions with it like recreating the Vesuvius shape out of a giant baba!
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
This square is full of life and the most important churches of the city are here. Like 'chiesa del Gesù Nuovo' which is a jaw dropping beauty or the St Chiara cloister with its outside beautiful gardens.
Friggitoria Fiorenzano
This place is in the crowded Pignasecca. A magical scary place for tourists who are not used to this messy vibe. It feels like being in a Medina. People flow from every corner, vendors scream their deals, you'll find food, clothes, toys, whatever! And everything is very cheap. The Neapolitan spirit is all here! Everyone starts a conversation and it's the easiest thing to make friends. Fiorenzano is an institution: fried everything. To have an aperitif before lunch time get some 'crocchè': smashed fried potatoes with cheese that look like a meatball and taste like heaven. Also fried vegetables are delicious, and healthy.. I guess
Via Toledo
This long street is full of shops and it's where most locals shop. But don't get your souvenirs here as there are less touristy places to get something more special! Enjoy your shopping and get a glimpse of the beautiful architecture all around.
Cammarota Spritz
Neapolitans are quite jealous of this place. Once there were only locals, when it got so popular it got crowded with tourists even though it's in place quite hard to find for a tourist. Indeed it is in a narrow street almost hidden as this is not a bar but more like a room. A small tiny room where guy constantly makes one drink: spritz. But the thing that probably attracts all of this people is that it only costs one euro and it's quite strong. You ca literally get drunk off of 4 euros and you're good.
Trattoria Da Nennella
As you get in the 'Quartieri Spagnoli' the atmosphere changes. If you thought the city was messy and chaotic before, maybe you shouldn't enter this neighborhood. Or maybe you should because otherwise you would be missing one of Neapolitan pearls. The streets are so narrow it is a surprise to see cars and bikes pass by so easily in between the crowd. Da nennella is not just a place for food, it is a whole experience. Let me explain: here they treat you like a local even though a lot of tourist come. This means that speak to you in Neapolitan, they make fun of everyone (obviously in a light hearted way but the that's the gag) they speak super loud, they treat you as if you were a long lost friend. You may have the chef sitting in front of you and talking to you about his day. Get the 'pasta and patate' as well as 'salsiccia and friarielli'. The first one is pasta with potatoes, it may sound weird but it's so so good. They only make it in the south and it's filled with creamy cheese. The second one is sausages with a kind of vegetable that grows especially in the south, a little bit bitter but together with the sausage is the most perfect mix. Neapolitans love it. The prices are super convenient but you will have to wait a little bit outside before you get in.
La Stanza del Gusto
This place has on its menu everything you should try, just order the entire menu. Definitely do not miss on a trancher full of cold cuts and typical cheeses! Try a 'pasta al ragù' Ragù is made differently according to with part of Italy you're visiting but the Neapolitan one is, hands down, one of the bestest! the care that goes behind it, the time and patience, that is probably why it is usually cooked by grandmas. It has to cook slowly for about 5 hours with special pieces of meat and meatballs, it's one of the best thing you'll eat in Italy for sure. It is usually the Sunday lunch in the south
Castel Nuovo
This medieval castle has been for a long time the house to the Spanish dynasty. It has a beautiful view on the gulf and nice gardens all around, definitely worth a visit!
Gay Odin
Gay Odin is a chain of patisserie very known in Naples. They offer a wide variety of desserts any kind, but the best ones are thrones with chocolate of course! Try 'la foresta nera' which is basically a block of thin leaves of chocolate that melt in your mouth as soon as you bite them. A perfect breakfast to charge for the day!
Teatro di San Carlo
Once in Naples you certainly can't miss on the first tether ever in Europe and one of Unesco sites! San Carlo theater is a gem. If you are lucky enough to book a show you definitely won't regret it because regardless of the show, the place itself it's so aestethicgally pleasing, with its lights and red chairs and shiny paintings all over.
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Get the best 'pizza fritta' here as a snack during the afternoon. Moreover it is always a good time for pizza, but careful, pizza fritta is not pizza even though the name, it is a different type of plate with a fried dough outside filled in with 'ricotta' a creamy cheese. It's a lot but everyone loves it here at every hour of the day. Indeed Zia Esterina is always so crowded!
Mennella Il Gelato
This Ice cream parlor is in the top ten with Chalet Ciro. The ice cream is directly produced by the family who owns the place and if you have a delicate palate you will be able to feel the difference from any other ice cream
Gennaro Salvo Pizza a Portafoglio
Have a little appetizer with the pizza a portafoglio! it is basically a small version of a pizza folded like paper to eat on the go. Neapolitans love pizza so much they invented every possible way to have it!
Galleria Umberto I
Part of the UNESCO sites this gallery is incredibly beautiful. Made of a glass rooftop, very fancy shops are here and fancy bars as well. Inside just at the entrance there is the smallest shop called 'La Sfogliatella Mary'. Here they sell one of the best sfogliatella, one of the classic desserts in Naples. the Sfogliatella can be in two different ways 'la Riccia' literally 'the curly' is a crispy one, 'la frolla' is a softer version. on the inside they are the same, delicious in both ways. It has a tail shape and it's filled with cream and orange aroma. It is too good!
Casa Infante
If you a sweet tooth post lunch go to Casa Infante to try the famous 'fiocco di Neve' or 'nuovola' which is a particular sweet called snowflake or cloud, by the name you can already get how delicate it is. It is filled with nuts cream and it's very very soft.
Passione Di Sofì
Say goodbye to Naples in one of the best way possible, yes with a fried mixture named 'il cuoppo' Il cuoppo is basically a folded basket of paper filled with fried vegetables, crocché, fried fish and with zeppole. These last ones are a fried dough with algae very very luscious. Grab a cold beer too and head to the seaside to see the sunset over the horizon and behind the islands!
Colonna Traiana
This is one of the Roman triumphal column it was made to commemorate the emperor Trajan and its victory in the Dacian Wars. It is one of the most known building in Rome and it's definitely jaw dropping.
Piazza Venezia
This square is the heart of Rome, different streets all cross the square and it so so crowded. various events take place along the yearend just behind there is the beautiful palazzo Venezia.
Dar Filettaro
In this open air osteria you will find one of the most delicious street food: the fried baccalà. The baccalà is a very popular fish in the south and they usually eat it fried, here you can have it in fried slices to eat on the outside tables in the square while watching people pass by in this great city.
Fontana di Trevi
This is the most famous fountain in the world and definitely one of the most famous ones in Italy. It is indeed alway crowded with tourists. Maybe try and get your picture 'Roman Holiday' style here!
Pantheon
The pantheon is a must when in Rome. It has a lot of history behind that it just deserves a list. Plus there is not much queue and it's easy to get a guide who'll let you know all the insights of this magnificent architecture
Supplizio
There is a lot of competition in the capital to win the best supplì but Supplizio doesn't seem to fear any rivals. The Suppli is considered street food and it is basically a ballon rice and cheese fried. It can be made in different versions with sauce or without it, it is great either way. Maybe try both since you're here :)
Walk along the Tevere
The walk along the Tevere (Tiber River) is very romantic and a perfect way to have an idea of the city while just wandering around.
Pipero Roma
This restaurant is known as one of the best places to get the perfect carbonara. Just like coffee and pizza in Naples, Carbonara is holy for Romans. It has to be made in a specific way otherwise you're just ruining their special plate and you don't want to do that. The carbonara is made with egg and jowl (not just any kind of meat, careful). And it is hard to find the perfect cooking point among the ingredient even if they are just three. The chef here knows how to do that, so sit back and get your stomach ready you'll just have to enjoy it!
Regoli Pasticceria
Head to one of the best known patisserie in Rome for your breakfast with the typical maritozzo with cream: the dough should be very soft with a nice scent of eggs, the cream should be added right in front of you so that the dough doesn't get too wet. Apparently women used to cook the dessert because it could be conserved for a long time.
Colosseo
With a quick one hour train ride say hi to Italy's capital: Rome the eternal city! Of course once you're here you can't miss the colosseum, basically Italy's icon all over the world
Osteria Angelino dal 1899
This osteria is the roman spirit materialized. Indeed not only tourists come here but locals as well. They serve dishes with locals fresh products and they care A LOT about keeping the tradition in the roman cuisine. Especially when it comes to Amatriciana. The Amatrciana is a debated plate because as always everybody has a version, but for Osteria Angelini there are no versions, there is just one: the traditional one. Have it here so yo know you're having the realest amatriciana ever!
Terme di Caracalla
This important historical place was once a place for the greatest and most ancient complex of thermae. The Romans used them a lot in the past as palace to meet people. Today they are also used for gigs.
Felice a Testaccio
At Felice you will be able to try what was rated Rome's best Cacio e Pepe. Cacio e Pepe is a simple plate but once again there are so many details to think about when you want to get to perfection. Apparently this place is always able to do that. The environment is very friendly but well kept and nicely decorated.
Trattoria Da Enzo
Ready for your last deliciousness before ending the trip? Trattoria Da Enzo is where you'll find the best 'coda alla vaccinara' this plate has a history of poverty behind but as always great things come out of sacrifice, like this dish. Unluckily you can'y book in this small trattoria so you will have to wait to get a seat but hey, you're about to taste one of the best Italian dishes once again!
Walk over the bridges
Take a last walk over the bridges to contemplate the beauty of this magical city and all the amazing things you were able to try during these few days. If there is one thing that Italian can do so good, well that is definitely cooking!
@silvia
Hello, my name is Silvia and I'm a travel enthusiast! I love organizing trips and I'll share all my tips and knowledge because we all deserve to experience the best of the best while traveling!
Italy
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